Introduction
Hair is one of the most important parts of the human body and awareness about its care is taken by everyone nowadays. Long, Shiny, Strong and Healthy hair catches a number of products are applied on the hair by both men and women to make hair healthy. Products which are used on hair are shampoos, conditioners, hair oils, hair styling gels, hair dyes, hair straighteners, etc. Thus it may be observed that hair preparations form a very important class of cosmetics.1 Shampoo is a hair care product, which is used to remove unwanted build-up in the hair without stripping out so much sebum and making hair manageable and dirt free. Nowadays there are many options for shampoo available in the market with various functions like volumizing shampoo, revitalizing shampoo, etc, but when used alone gives a dry, rough, feel to the hair.2, 3 Rise pollution rate and overuse of grooming devices and harmful synthetic chemicals used for improving hair condition results in frizzy, dry, damaged hair. Frequent shampooing removes the protective layer of oil surrounded by hair. This should be restored which is achieved by use of a conditioning agent like natural oil. Customers search for 2 in 1 product that will clean, condition, as well as nourish hair. Conditioning shampoo is grasping a large market share of hair care products. They protect hair structure and cleanse hair also at same time leaves hair smooth, manageable and shiny. Shampoo conditioners are used for cleansing as well as for restoring, improving and maintaining the condition of hairs. Shampoo bars are a solid form of traditional hair cleanser, they are made up of natural fats and gentle cleansers that are solidified and packed into a bar form. There are plenty of natural ingredients like lanolin and derivatives, oils like sunflower oil, sesame oil, etc, which are being used as a conditioning agent. There are many advantages of conditioning shampoo bar like it is environment friendly, gentle, long lasting, forms a thin protective layer on the hair strand.4, 5 Vegetable oils are successfully used in personal care due to its softening and smoothing properties. One of the oils included in this group is Safflower oil. This oil is not only used in the modern personal care industry, but from ancient times.6 Safflower oil is obtained from a species of Carthamus tinctorius from the family Asteraceae. It is rich in unsaturated fatty acids which give protective and reparative effects on hair and skin which is attributed by its high content of triglycerides of linoleic acid.7 The oil contains a high percentage of fatty acids like linoleic acid, oleic acid, and lubrication. The oil is light, non-occlusive, and capable of penetrating the pores of the skin. The oil generally does not contain skin irritants and sensitizers, making it appropriate for topical application.8 Human hair gets soiled due to contact with the surrounding atmosphere, which forms sebum secreted by the scalp. This creates the necessity of frequent shampooing. It cleanses hair by removing excessive oil and sebum. However, frequent shampoo leads to various side-effects like dryness, tangled hair and loss of luster, due to elimination of natural oils or other moisturizing materials. To overcome these issues separate conditioning products are used. Hence an attempt was made to formulate a conditioning shampoo bar with natural conditioning agent safflower oil.
Materials and Methods
Procurement of active
Safflower oil was procured from Moksha Lifestyle Products, Delhi. Qualitative and Quantitative evaluation of Safflower oil were done.
Instrumental analysis by as chromatography
Gas chromatography (GC) is a technique widely applied for the analysis of major (triacylglycerides) and minor constituents of edible oils and fats.9 The safflower oil was analyzed at Qualichem Laboratories Pvt Ltd Nagpur.
The qualitative and quantitative examination of the constituent is done by capillary gas chromatography (GC) of the compounds or their derivatives. In general, GC assumes that the compounds injected are volatile at the temperature of analysis and that they do not decompose at either the temperature of injection or analysis. 10
Analysis of safflower oil
Specific gravity, Refractive index, Acid Value and Saponification value were determined according to BIS of Safflower oil IS 3491: 1965.11
Formulation of conditioning shampoo bar
Shampoo bar base was selected as it imparts conditioning and foaming characteristics which are made up of natural fats and gentle cleansers that are solidified into a bar form.
Table 1
Formulation of conditioning shampoo bar.
Evaluation of Safflower oil conditioning shampoo bar
Evaluation of Conditioning shampoo bar was carried out as per BIS of Shampoo IS 7884:2004.
Determination of pH
Universal pH indicator was soaked in water and placed on the product. The color changed was compared with the Universal Indicator Chart for determination pH. The pH balance of the shampoo bar is important for enhancing and repairing the qualities of hair, minimizing irritation to the eyes and stabilizing the ecological balance of the scalp.12
Determination of foam height
About 5 g of shampoo bar was accurately weighed in a 100 ml glass beaker and 10 ml of water was added, then the beaker was covered with glass and allowed to stand for 30 min. The content of the beaker was stirred with a glass rod and transferred into a 50 ml graduated cylinder. It was adjusted to 50 ml by adding sufficient water, and then the content of the cylinder was stirred with a glass rod to ensure a uniform suspension. When the temperature of the content of the cylinder was reached to 300C, 12 complete shakes were given to it upside down. After 12 shakes, the cylinder was allowed to stand for 5 min and volume was recorded.13
Determination of total fatty matter
About 2 g of shampoo bar was accurately weighed in a conical flask or round bottom flask. 25 ml of HCL was added to it and refluxed for one half hour. After refluxing, the content of the flask was poured into a 300 ml separating funnel. The conical flask was rinsed with 50 ml of ether in the portion of 10 ml. The ether was poured in the separating funnel. The separating funnel was shaken well and left until two layers separated. The aqueous layer was separated out and the ether layer was shaken out with a 50 ml portion of ether 5 times. All the ether extract was combined and was washed with water until it is free from acid. The ether extract was filtered through a filter paper containing sodium sulphate into a petri dish which has been previously dried at a room temperature of 600C and weighed. The sodium sulphate on the filter paper was washed with ether and combined with the washing of the filtrates. Ether was distilled off and material was dried remaining in the petridish at a temperature 600C of constant mass.
Dirt Dispersion
About 0.2 g of shampoo bar was added in a test tube containing 10 ml of distilled water. 1 drop of India ink was added. The test tube was stoppered and shaken ten times. The amount of ink in the foam was estimated as None, Light, Moderate, or Heavy.
Shampoo that causes the ink to concentrate in the foam is considered poor quality. The dirt should stay in the water portion. Dirt that stays in the foam will be difficult to rinse away. It will redeposit on the hair.
Detergency and Cleansing Action
About 5 g of sample of soiled human hair is placed at 35 0C in 200 cc of water containing 1 g of shampoo bar. The flask was shaken 50 times a minute for four minutes, and then washed once again with sufficient amount of water, then filter the hair, dried and weighted. The amount of soil was removed under these condition was calculated.
Evaluation of finished product on human hair strands (Visual method
The conditioning effect of the product on human strands was observed visually and properties were observed. According to some criteria the subjective analysis of shampoo bars was carried out on different subjects of the different age groups and some parameters were considered.
Evaluation of finished product on human hair strands (Instrumental method
A wide range of instrument techniques are to provide a support to hair conditioning effect. A powerful tool known for providing precise data on hair conditioning and it is nothing but Scanning Electron Microscopy.
Scanning electron microscope (SEM)
The scanning electron microscope is the microscope that uses electrons rather than light to form an image. The SEM produces images of high resolution which means that closely spaced features can be examined at high magnification. SEM facilitates the detailed examination of hair fiber surface at much higher magnification with greater depth of focus. It allows observation at higher magnification which contributes better resolution of image compared to other microscopes.
Results and Discussion
Gas chromatographic analysis
The gas chromatography study was done to identify the presence of fatty acids in safflower oil. Safflower oil is rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids (58.44%) like Omega 6 fatty acids (linoleic acid) and omega 3 fatty acids (oleic acid).
Formulation of Safflower oil conditioning shampoo bar
After evaluation of oil, the base for shampoo bar was formulated on trial & error basis with stearic acid and cetyl alcohol from which formulations with stearic acid were acceptable than cetyl alcohol.
Base B1 with 13% stearic acid had creamy consistency. So the stearic acid concentration was increased.
After selection of base (B3), safflower oil was incorporated in various concentrations i.e. 4% (F1), 4.5% (F2) and 5% (F3) and 5.5% (F4). In which formulation containing 5.5% safflower oil was too sticky. So, a shampoo bar containing 4%, 4.5% and 5% safflower oil was selected and subjected for further evaluation. Incorporation of Safflower oil in shampoo bar delivers oil to the hair surface, stabilizes the product and provides dense and rich foam. It is desirable to have a conditioning shampoo bar capable of depositing conditioning aid on the hair surface.
Evaluation of conditioning shampoo bar
Determination of pH
F2 and F3 were within desired range, except F6 had undesirable pH. Therefore, F2 and F3 pass the test and are selected for further studies.
Table 4
Determination of pH of the product.
|
pH of Finished products |
Standard pH |
Obtained pH |
|
F1 |
4.0-9.0 |
8.0 |
|
F2 |
4.0-9.0 |
9.0 |
|
F3 |
4.0-9.0 |
10.0 |
After determination of pH, shampoo bar with 4.5% and 5% was subjected to other evaluation parameters, which is shown in Table 5.
Table 5
Results of evaluation tests for finished product.
Evaluation of finished product on human hair strands (Visual method)
The conditioning effect of the product on human strands was observed visually and properties were observed. According to some criteria the subjective analysis of 4.5% and 5% product was carried out and some parameters were shown in the below table, graph. The shampoo bar with 5% Safflower oil (S1) was found to be better in all the properties than the shampoo bar with 4.5% Safflower oil. The comparison of untreated and treated hair strands is given below.
Evaluation of finished product on human hair strands (Instrumental method)
The above result of evaluation study on human hair could be concluded that the shampoo bar delivers unique performance to the product. Sample with 5% of safflower oil was subjected to Instrumental analysis (Scanning Electron Microscopy). From a photomicrograph of treated and untreated hair fiber, it could be concluded that the product deposited and coated peeled off cuticle evenly and uniformly and closed the spacing of cuticle scale. The images are given below.
Conclusion
From the experimentation Safflower oil was found to be best suited for incorporating as an active in conditioning shampoo bar, due to presence of high amounts of Linoleic acid.
From the result of visual analysis and scanning electron microscopy it was concluded that the shampoo bar with 5% safflower oil proved to have various desirable properties like moisturizing, conditioning and nourishing effect on the dry and damaged hair with good grooming, luster, manageability and shine.
The conditioning shampoo bar with 5% safflower oil exhibited pronounced conditioning effects on hair as well as good cleansing and lathering ability as revealed by SEM studies. Thus it was found to form a conditioning shampoo bar that can replace the other two step formulations i.e. shampoo plus conditioner. It passes all the mentioned tests successfully. The product was found to be acceptable in all terms of evaluation parameters.
